The authentic Ligurian green cake: the tradition of Val Prino and Dolcedo
Summer in the Imperia hinterland brings with it the intense scent of the sun-warmed earth and a silence broken only by the song of cicadas amongst the olive trees. At this time of year, the kitchens of Val Prino are filled with an unmistakable aroma: that of the Ligurian green cake, a rustic dish that encapsulates the essence of our local cuisine. Far from the most popular tourist routes, this recipe represents the deep connection between peasant cuisine and the wild vegetation of the hills of Western Liguria.
The green pie of Western Liguria: an identity rooted in the land
Often confused with the famous Genoese Torta Pasqualina, the green pie typical of Western Liguria – and in particular of the hills around Dolcedo – has a completely distinct identity. Whilst the Genoese Pasqualina is a tall pie, rich with numerous layers of puff pastry, whole eggs cooked inside and prescinseua, the version from our valley is decidedly thinner, more rustic and closely tied to the immediate produce available from the vegetable gardens and fields during the warmer months.
Ligurian cuisine has historically been characterised by frugality and ingenuity. In the hilltop settlements of the Val Prino, families used whatever the land provided naturally or whatever grew with little water in their terraced vegetable gardens. This is precisely how the ‘torta verde’ came about: an extremely thin pastry made solely from water, flour and extra virgin olive oil, enclosing a generous filling of seasonal vegetables, wild herbs and, often, a handful of boiled rice to add texture and absorb the moisture from the vegetables.
The ingredients: the simplicity of the summer vegetable garden
During the summer season, the composition of the filling adapts to the weather. Whilst wild herbs are favoured in spring, in summer the star of the show is Swiss chard (commonly known as ‘erbetta’), often accompanied by trombetta courgettes, typical of western Liguria, which add a touch of delicacy and sweetness to the mixture.
Here are the essential elements for an authentic green pie:
- The pastry (the ‘pasta matta’): It is made strictly without yeast. Just soft wheat flour, lukewarm water, a pinch of salt and the indispensable extra virgin olive oil made from Taggiasca olives from the Val Prino. It must be kneaded at length and then rolled out with a rolling pin until it becomes almost transparent.
- The vegetables: Fresh Swiss chard, finely chopped. In the most authentic tradition, the vegetables are not boiled beforehand, but used raw after being salted to draw out excess water. This preserves the original flavour and texture of the leaves.
- The rice: A handful of plain rice, boiled in salted water until very al dente. Its role is structural: it serves to bind the filling and absorb the juices released by the Swiss chard during baking.
- Binders and flavourings: Fresh eggs, grated cheese (Parmesan or mature pecorino) and fresh spring onions, finely chopped and gently sautéed in oil before being added to the rest of the ingredients.
How to make torta verde: the step-by-step method
Making the green pie is a ritual that requires patience and precise movements, handed down from generation to generation in the kitchens of our valley.
1. Preparing the filling
Start by washing the Swiss chard thoroughly. Dry it completely and cut it into very thin strips. Place the strips in a colander, sprinkle them with a handful of coarse salt and leave them to rest for at least an hour. This step is essential: the salt will draw out the water from the vegetables. Once the time is up, squeeze them firmly between your hands, a handful at a time, until they no longer release any liquid.
Meanwhile, boil a handful of rice in salted water, draining it whilst still very al dente. In a frying pan, gently fry the chopped spring onions over a low heat with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, taking care not to let them brown.
2. The ‘pasta matta’
On a work surface, make a well in the flour. Pour the lukewarm water, a tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of salt into the centre. Knead vigorously until you have a smooth, elastic and soft dough. Cover it with a damp tea towel or a warm bowl and leave it to rest for about half an hour at room temperature. This resting period will allow the gluten to relax, making the dough extremely stretchy.
3. Combining the ingredients
In a large bowl, combine the well-squeezed Swiss chard, the cooled rice, the stewed spring onions, the beaten eggs and a generous handful of grated cheese. Mix everything together thoroughly until you have a smooth mixture. If you like, you can add a pinch of fresh marjoram, an aromatic herb that is always present in the cuisine of the Ponente region.
4. Rolling out and cooking
Divide the pasta matta dough into two parts, one slightly larger than the other. Using a rolling pin (and then gently stretching it with the backs of your hands), roll out the larger portion until you have a very thin sheet of pastry. Place it in the bottom of a round baking tin previously greased with oil, allowing the excess pastry to hang over the edges.
Spread the vegetable and rice filling evenly over the pastry, levelling it with a spoon. Roll out the second piece of pastry to the same thickness and place it on top of the filling. Fold the edges of the bottom layer of pastry inwards, creating a decorative border that will seal the pie. Brush the surface with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and prick it gently with the prongs of a fork to prevent it from puffing up during cooking.
Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C for about 40–45 minutes, until the surface is golden and crisp. The green tart is best enjoyed warm or, even better, at room temperature the following day, when the flavours have blended perfectly.
A dish to share under the pergola
On hot summer’s days in western Liguria, the torta verde is not just a meal, but a symbol of conviviality. It is the essential dish for al fresco lunches, picnics in the mountain meadows or for enjoying in the shade of the vine-covered pergolas that characterise the houses in our hillside hamlets. Its practicality makes it perfect for carrying, and it is one of the most popular dishes during the patron saint’s festivals that enliven the villages of the Val Prino in July and August.
Every family has its own version of the recipe: some add grated lemon zest for a touch of freshness, others prefer a hint of garlic, whilst others, following the deepest-rooted traditions of the valley, enrich the filling with a dash of local fermented cheese to give it a decidedly stronger flavour. This diversity is the true richness of our cuisine, an intangible heritage made up of simple gestures and ingredients rooted in the land.
Davide’s tip: If you decide to try your hand at making torta verde during the summer months in Val Prino, avoid turning on the oven during the middle of the day, when temperatures are at their highest. The best time to bake it is early in the morning or in the evening, making the most of the cool hill breeze that sweeps down towards Costa Carnara. Furthermore, to achieve the perfect texture, never skip the step of letting the chard rest in salt: residual moisture is the main cause of a soggy base. The vegetables must be completely dry before they come into contact with the ‘pasta matta’ dough.
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