Early summer traditions in Pietrabruna: lavender, the ‘stroscia’ and the solstice rituals
Pietrabruna, situated on the slopes of Mount Faudo between the San Lorenzo Valley and the borders of the Prino Valley, is home to a wealth of stories that come to life with the arrival of the summer solstice. At this time of year, agricultural work intertwines with ancient rituals linked to the land, mountain blooms and popular devotion. Exploring this area in early summer offers an insight into the true rural and hard-working spirit of Western Liguria, far from the crowds of seaside tourism.
The historic harvesting and distillation of lavender in Pietrabruna
Before the Riviera di Ponente became inextricably linked to seaside tourism, Pietrabruna’s economy rested on three main pillars: olive growing, flower cultivation and, in particular, the harvesting of lavender. Between late June and early July, the slopes of Monte Faudo and the terraced fields surrounding the village would be bathed in shades of purple. This was not merely a bloom to be admired, but a vital economic resource for local families.
The variety harvested was mainly wild lavender, known locally as ‘aspic’ or ‘lavandino’, which thrives on the limestone, sun-drenched soils of the Ligurian hinterland. Whole families would set off up the mountain paths early in the morning, armed with sickles to cut the flowering stems. The bunches were then tied up and carried on their shoulders or on the backs of mules, wrapped in large hemp cloths, to the village’s distilleries.
In Pietrabruna, distillation took place using historic direct-fire stills. The water vapour, passing through the pressed flowers, extracted the essential oil: a golden, intensely fragrant liquid that was then sold to the perfume industry, particularly to companies in neighbouring France. Although industrial production is now at a lower level than in the last century, a few small local farms keep this tradition alive, still distilling lavender using traditional methods during the first weeks of July.
The ritual of the Stroscia: the cake you break with your hands
One cannot understand Pietrabruna’s culinary identity without mentioning the Stroscia. This baked dessert, closely linked to the availability of simple local ingredients, represents the perfect blend of peasant cuisine and the need to preserve food for the long term during the hot months.
The traditional recipe is based on just a few ingredients closely linked to the local area:
- Soft wheat flour: the basis of local bread-making.
- Extra virgin olive oil: exclusively from the Taggiasca variety, which imparts softness and aroma without overpowering the other flavours.
- Sugar and yeast: to provide the right sweetness and encourage the gentle rising that makes the cake crumbly.
- Aromatic liqueur: usually vermouth or Marsala, used to flavour the dough and impart a distinctive aromatic note.
What makes the Stroscia unique is the complete absence of butter or eggs, which are entirely replaced by olive oil. This not only gives it a dry texture, but in the past also allowed the cake to be stored for weeks without losing its organoleptic properties. It was the ideal food for farmers who spent whole days in the fields or olive groves under the summer sun.
The name of the cake itself derives from the dialect verb ‘strosciare’, which means to break, snap or crumble. Local tradition dictates that the Stroscia must never be cut with a knife. To eat it, the cake must be struck in the centre with a fist or broken apart directly by hand, following the natural cracks that form on its golden surface. During the summer months, it is customary to eat it at the end of a meal, accompanied by a glass of sweet wine or passito.
The bonfires of St John and the herbs of the summer solstice
The night between 23 and 24 June, coinciding with the feast of St John the Baptist, marks a crucial moment in Pietrabruna’s folklore. This celebration, which combines ancient pagan rites linked to the summer solstice with Christian liturgy, marks the triumph of light over darkness and the beginning of nature’s period of greatest vigour.
In ancient times, on the evening of the eve, large bonfires were lit on the hills visible from the village. The fire served a purifying and protective function for the forthcoming harvests. The young people of the village would leap over the dying embers as a test of courage and as a ritual to ensure good health.
Also associated with this night is the gathering of solstice herbs, foremost among them St John’s Wort, commonly known as ‘Erba di San Giovanni’. Harvested at dawn on 24 June, when the yellow flowers are still damp with morning dew, this plant is used to make St John’s oil. The flowers are left to macerate in olive oil in the sun for about forty days, until a deep red liquid is obtained, traditionally used in folk medicine to soothe sunburn and treat skin wounds.
The ancient link with Mount Faudo and transhumance
Historically, the start of summer coincided with transhumance, the seasonal movement of flocks and herds towards mountain pastures. Pietrabruna, situated at the foot of Mount Faudo (1,149 metres above sea level), has always served as a link between the coast and the high-altitude pastures.
The local shepherds, who grazed their flocks on the valley floor pastures during the winter, would make their way up the paths linking the village to the summit of Mount Faudo. This migration ensured the animals had fresh grass and milder temperatures during the hottest months of the year. Today, although large-scale transhumance has almost entirely disappeared, the paths climbing from Pietrabruna towards Monte Faudo remain historic routes of great interest for understanding the organisation of the landscape, characterised by ancient stone drinking troughs and dry-stone walls marking the boundaries of the old pastoral holdings.
Davide’s Tip: If you decide to head up to Pietrabruna in summer to explore its narrow alleyways or to set off along the paths leading up to Monte Faudo, remember that the historic centre is entirely pedestrianised and paved with cobblestones, which can be slippery. Park your car in the designated spaces at the entrance to the village, near the parish church, and wear light hiking boots or shoes with good grip. Furthermore, if you plan to walk along the sun-exposed hillside paths, make sure you take a sufficient supply of water with you: along the routes leading up to the mountain ridge, you won’t find any water supply points outside the village.
Foto di Igor La Prado su Pexels