The authentic Ligurian Cundigiun: the recipe for a summer salad with ‘cuore di bue’ tomatoes in Dolcedo and the Val Prino
Summer in Western Liguria is fragrant with fresh basil and has the intense flavour of tomatoes ripened under the hillside sun. Among the traditional recipes that best express the union of land and sea, the cundigiun (or condiglione) stands out: a fresh and nutritious dish that embodies the essence of local peasant cuisine. Preparing this summer salad means rediscovering time-honoured traditions and making the most of the extraordinary produce that our region offers at this time of year.
The history and philosophy of Ligurian Cundigiun
Cundigiun is not merely a mixed salad, but a true summer culinary ritual that unites the coast and the hinterland of Western Liguria. Historically, this dish arose from the need to use simple, easily preserved ingredients – ideal for fishermen during long days at sea or for farmers engaged in the strenuous work of harvesting and gathering crops on the terraced fields. The term itself derives from the verb ‘condire’ (to season), emphasising the importance of the dressing, which must be generous and strictly made with local extra virgin olive oil.
Whilst in eastern Liguria they prepare ‘capponadda’, a variant that makes extensive use of sailors’ biscuits and tinned fish, in western Liguria – and particularly in the Val Prino – ‘cundigiun’ celebrates the bounty of the summer vegetable garden. Farmers used whatever the land offered in abundance during the warmer months, enriching the dish with salted anchovies – an economical and flavourful staple always found in the pantries of Ligurian homes.
Local ingredients: the vegetable garden meets the sea
The undisputed star: the ‘Cuore di Bue’ tomato
The success of an excellent Ligurian cundigiun depends almost entirely on the quality of the tomato used. In this part of Liguria, the tomato of choice is the ‘Cuore di Bue’. Characterised by an irregular, ribbed and sometimes asymmetrical shape, this tomato has an extremely thin skin and exceptionally fleshy pulp, almost devoid of water and with very few seeds.
The ‘Cuore di Bue’ grown in western Liguria benefits from a unique microclimate, where the salty air rising from the sea mingles with the cool breezes descending from the mountains. This contrast in temperature and constant exposure to the sun give the tomato a sweet flavour, balanced by a very slight acidity. For ‘cundigiun’, the tomato must be ripe but still firm to the touch: a tomato that is too soft would release too much liquid, compromising the dish’s texture, whilst one that is too green would lack the sweetness needed to balance the savoury flavour of the anchovies and olives.
The selection of local ingredients
To prepare an authentic cundigiun, the choice of ingredients must adhere to strict criteria regarding seasonality and geographical origin. Here is the list of essential ingredients that must not be missing from the table:
- Cuore di Bue tomatoes: fleshy, firm and cut into thick wedges.
- Cucumbers: peeled and sliced into thin rounds. In the Ponente region, local varieties – crisp and easy to digest – are preferred.
- Green peppers: cut into thin strips. They add a touch of freshness and a crunchy texture that contrasts with the softness of the tomatoes.
- Red onion: finely sliced. To make it sweeter and easier to digest, old cookery books recommend soaking it in cold water with a dash of vinegar for about half an hour before use.
- Salted anchovies or tuna in oil: the anchovies must be thoroughly desalted under running water, deboned and chopped into small pieces. If tuna is used, it must be of the highest quality, preferably preserved in olive oil.
- Taggiasca olives: an essential ingredient, with their unmistakable, slightly bitter and fruity flavour. They are used whole, with the stone, as tradition dictates.
- Genoese Basil PDO: the leaves must be torn strictly by hand to prevent the metal of the knife from oxidising them, causing them to turn black and dispersing their essential oils.
- Stale bread or sailor’s biscuits: a structural element that serves to absorb the juices from the vegetables and the dressing oil.
- Taggiasca Extra Virgin Olive Oil: the liquid gold of the Val Prino. It must be a sweet, delicate oil, with hints of almond, capable of binding all the ingredients together without overpowering their individual flavours.
- Red wine vinegar and salt: to adjust the acidity and overall flavour of the dish.
The traditional step-by-step preparation
Preparing Ligurian cundigiun does not require any cooking, but it does call for care in arranging the layers and balancing the flavours. The secret lies in the bread’s ability to absorb the natural emulsion formed between the extra virgin olive oil, the vinegar and the water released by the tomatoes.
Start by rubbing a clove of garlic (if desired) over the base of a large ceramic or wooden container, traditionally called a ‘lemmo’. Take some stale bread or sailor’s biscuits, break them into large chunks and moisten them with a mixture of water and a tablespoon of red wine vinegar. The bread should soften slightly, but must not under any circumstances fall apart or turn into a mush.
Arrange the moistened bread on the bottom of the bowl. On top of this, place the oxheart tomatoes, cut into even wedges. Lightly salt the tomatoes so that they begin to release their juices, which will drip directly onto the bread below, flavouring it.
Next, add the sliced cucumbers, the peppers cut into strips, and the red onion, which has been drained and dried. Distribute the desalted anchovy fillets and Taggiasca olives evenly. Finish the dish with plenty of fresh basil leaves, torn by hand.
Drizzle everything with a generous amount of Taggiasca extra virgin olive oil and, if necessary, a further splash of vinegar. Avoid stirring vigorously straight away: let the ingredients rest and the flavours blend naturally for at least an hour before serving.
Val Prino: a land of olive groves and bountiful vegetable gardens
The richness of the Ligurian ‘cundigiun’ lies entirely in the land from which its ingredients come. Val Prino, which stretches from the outskirts of Imperia to the slopes of Monte Faudo, is a region with a long history of agriculture. The terraces, supported by dry-stone walls, which characterise the hilly landscape around Dolcedo and its hamlets, have for centuries been home to Taggiasca olive groves, as well as small patches of flat land where farmers grow summer vegetables.
In these valleys, the cultivation of ‘cuore di bue’ tomatoes and basil is a family tradition. Spring water flowing down from the mountains irrigates the small hillside vegetable gardens, ensuring the plants grow in a balanced way without the need for chemical inputs. Buying these produce directly from local growers or at the area’s weekly markets allows you to bring the authentic flavour of Western Liguria to your table, transforming a simple dish like cundigiun into an unforgettable sensory experience.
Davide’s Tip: If you’re making cundigiun during the hottest days of summer, pay attention to the serving temperature. Don’t give in to the temptation to keep it in the fridge until you’re ready to serve it: excessive cold stifles the delicate aromas of the basil and oxheart tomatoes, and tends to solidify the Taggiasca extra virgin olive oil, compromising the dish’s texture. Leave the salad to rest at room temperature in a cool corner of the kitchen for at least an hour before serving, simply covering it with a clean tea towel. If you need to buy the ingredients, head to your local markets early in the morning to avoid the hottest part of the day and ensure you get the best tomatoes before they run out.
Foto di Igor La Prado su Pexels