Dolcedo and the Val Prino: a journey through the narrow streets of the Ligurian hinterland
Dolcedo, situated in Val Prino along the Riviera di Ponente, is a destination of great interest for those wishing to explore the Ligurian hinterland during the summer season. Its ‘caruggi’ – the typical narrow alleyways that characterise the local architecture – offer a historical and cultural trail winding its way through ancient stone houses and hillside farmland. Exploring this part of the province of Imperia provides an insight into how local communities have adapted to a geologically complex landscape.
The geography of the Val Prino and the Dolcedo area
Liguria is a region in north-western Italy, bordered to the south by the Ligurian Sea, to the west by France, to the north by Piedmont and Emilia-Romagna, and to the south-east by Tuscany. This particular geographical position, defined by a narrow mountainous arc overlooking the Gulf of Genoa, has historically limited the space available for urban settlements and agriculture. The region’s current administrative boundaries largely coincide with the area once governed by the Republic of Genoa, which reached its present extent when the provinces of Genoa and Porto Maurizio took on a configuration similar to that of today.
Dolcedo is situated in the province of Imperia, historically linked to Porto Maurizio, within the Val Prino. This valley stretches from the hilly hinterland down towards the coast of the Riviera dei Fiori. In summer, the valley’s topography channels the sea breezes, offering a warm yet breezy climate, ideal for those wishing to temporarily leave the coastal beaches behind to explore the hillside footpaths and historic town centres.
The architecture of the ‘caruggi’: stone and the defence of the territory
The caruggi of Dolcedo are not merely thoroughfares, but represent the result of specific defensive and climatic requirements. This urban layout, which is also found in other historic villages in western Liguria and neighbouring areas — such as La Brigue in the nearby Roya Valley or Rocchetta Nervina in the Nervia Valley —, was a response to the scarcity of flat land. Houses had to be built by making the most of every square metre available on the rocky hillside, reducing the space allocated to passageways in favour of living space.
The structural characteristics of the ‘caruggi’ include various architectural features typical of the region:
- Tall, terraced houses: Designed to make the most of the limited space offered by the rocky slopes.
- Counter-pressure arches: Stone links between the buildings above, serving as structural reinforcements.
- Covered passageways and narrow alleys: Useful for creating constant shade and protecting residents from the summer sun, as well as hindering the advance of any invaders.
The colour contrast between the plastered façades and the grey stone of the doorways and paving defines the aesthetic of these settlements. Walking through the caruggi allows you to observe significant architectural details, such as the wooden doors, the external slate staircases and the small squares that suddenly open up between the walls of the buildings.
Olive cultivation and the rural landscape in summer
The landscape of the Val Prino is dominated by olive groves, a crop that has reshaped the appearance of the Ligurian hills. The rugged, mountainous terrain has been made fertile thanks to the construction of terraces supported by dry stone walls built from local stone. This feat of rural engineering has enabled the planting of olive trees that cover much of the hills surrounding Dolcedo.
In summer, the olive groves display their characteristic iridescent colouring: as the wind blows, the leaves of the trees sway, revealing their silvery undersides, creating a striking colour contrast with the deep green of the surrounding vegetation. Managing these lands requires constant maintenance of the dry stone walls and clearing of the undergrowth, which is essential for preparing the land for the autumn olive harvest. Local agriculture has also historically been linked to viticulture, with vineyards clinging to the hillsides, defying the steepness of the terrain.
Summer events and markets in Dolcedo
During the summer season, Dolcedo becomes a major attraction for visitors to the Riviera di Ponente thanks to a programme of events that celebrate local culture and produce. The Dolcedo market is one of the summer’s most regular events, offering an open-air exhibition space where local producers and craftspeople display their wares. Among the market stalls, you can find typical food products from the Val Prino, handicrafts and traditional artefacts.
This event allows visitors to actively experience the village, fostering interaction between residents and tourists who choose the hinterland as a destination for their excursions. Its proximity to the Riviera dei Fiori coastline, which attracts millions of tourists annually, makes these hilltop events an important asset for diversifying the region’s tourism offering, helping to channel visitor flows towards the inland valleys as well.
The promotion of small inland villages
The protection and promotion of hilltop villages are supported by national certifications that attest to their historical and environmental quality. The ‘I Borghi più belli d’Italia’ Association, founded in 2002 within the ANCI Tourism Council, aims to preserve and promote the great heritage of art, history and landscape found in small Italian towns with fewer than 15,000 inhabitants. Similarly, the Italian Touring Club awards the ‘Bandiera Arancione’ (Orange Flag) to inland destinations that stand out for their high-quality tourist offering, the promotion of local resources and sustainable environmental management.
Dolcedo and the other villages of the Val Prino are part of this initiative, which aims to counter depopulation in inland areas by promoting sustainable and off-season tourism. Preserving the architectural integrity of the ‘caruggi’ and maintaining traditional agricultural activities are key factors in ensuring the historical and cultural continuity of these communities.
Davide’s Tip: If you decide to explore the caruggi of Dolcedo during the summer months, plan your walk for early morning or late afternoon to avoid the hottest part of the day. Always carry a supply of water with you and wear closed-toe shoes with non-slip soles suitable for walking on stone: the cobbled alleyways of Liguria often have steep gradients and can be slippery even when it isn’t raining.
Foto di Christoph Hanssen su Pexels