Bussana Vecchia: history, revival and a guide to visiting the artists’ village in Western Liguria
Western Liguria is home to places where history has profoundly altered the urban and social fabric of the area. Bussana Vecchia, situated on a hill behind Sanremo and not far from the coastal resorts of the Riviera dei Fiori, is one of the most remarkable examples of architectural regeneration in Europe. Abandoned for decades following a tragic earthquake, the village has been given a new lease of life thanks to the initiative of an international community of artists.
The catastrophe of 1887: the end of old Bussana
The origins of Bussana Vecchia’s current appearance date back to the morning of 23 February 1887. On that date, a violent earthquake struck the inland areas of western Liguria, particularly the province of Porto Maurizio (now part of the province of Imperia), causing the collapse of most of the village’s houses and the parish church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. The earthquake damaged the stone buildings so severely that the entire surviving population was forced to abandon the village for good.
The inhabitants moved about three kilometres further down the valley, founding the settlement of Bussana Nuova along the Ligurian coast. For over seventy years, the old hilltop village remained completely uninhabited, turning into a heap of ruins overgrown with the wild vegetation of the Mediterranean scrub. The gutted houses and streets covered in rubble turned it into a ghost town, bearing witness to the force of nature in this narrow strip of land squeezed between the Alps and the sea.
The revival of the 1960s and the international community
The history of Bussana Vecchia took an unexpected turn in the late 1950s. A group of artists were struck by the layout of the village and decided to settle there to create a community centred on work and life. The basic idea was simple: to restore the damaged buildings without altering their original character, using only materials available on site, such as stones from the rubble, wood and slate.
This gave rise to a genuine set of communal rules governing village life: the houses did not belong to the individual occupants, but were occupied and restored at their own expense for artistic purposes. In the 1960s and 1970s, artists, painters, sculptors, musicians and craftspeople from all over Europe settled in Bussana Vecchia. The initial lack of essential services, such as electricity, running water and sewerage, did not deter the new inhabitants, who organised community life based on mutual cooperation, redefining the very concept of a hillside village.
What to see in Bussana Vecchia during the summer season
Visiting Bussana Vecchia in summer allows you to see at close quarters how contemporary art and rural Ligurian architecture have merged into a single setting. Access to the village is for pedestrians only, and a stroll along its stone-paved alleyways reveals historic architectural details, where the walls of the old houses serve as a backdrop for sculptures, installations and paintings on display outdoors.
The ruins of the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie
The village’s large church, gutted by the 1887 earthquake, forms the visual centrepiece of the village. The outer walls and some of the side chapels still bear traces of 19th-century stucco work and frescoes, whilst the roof, which has completely collapsed, leaves the interior of the church exposed to the open sky. This is a historic monument whose upper structural elements have not been restored but have been shored up for safety reasons, bearing witness to the violence of the nineteenth-century earthquake.
Artisan workshops and studios
Lining the narrow streets are numerous workshops and exhibition galleries run by local artists. During the summer months, these spaces are open to the public, offering the chance to observe the creation of ceramics, painting on canvas, stone or wood carving, and the crafting of handmade jewellery. Each studio reflects the personal style of the artist who runs it, making a stroll through the village a journey of continuous discovery of local craftsmanship.
The botanical garden and internal paths
In some of the restored areas of the village, small terraced gardens have been created, featuring plants typical of the Mediterranean climate alongside exotic species, perfectly integrated amongst the dry-stone walls. These spaces offer cool, shaded areas, particularly appreciated on hot summer’s days, and provide views across the surrounding valley down to the Ligurian Sea.
The surrounding landscape: olive groves and terraces of western Liguria
The climb up to Bussana Vecchia also offers the chance to observe at close quarters the typical agricultural landscape of the western Ligurian hinterland. This part of the region is characterised by a mountainous terrain that slopes steeply down towards the sea, an area historically lacking in flat land. To make these steep hills cultivable, past generations had to make the rocky soil fertile by building a dense network of terraces supported by dry-stone walls.
Olive groves stretch along the slopes surrounding the village, where the Taggiasca variety of olive is mainly grown, alongside vineyards clinging to the steepest slopes. This feat of rural engineering has stabilised the hillsides and transformed an inhospitable environment into a productive agricultural area. During the summer, the contrast between the grey of the olive leaves, the brown of the dry-stone walls and the blue of the sky defines the visual identity of the Riviera dei Fiori and its valleys.
Practical information for visitors
The geographical layout of Bussana Vecchia requires some logistical consideration for those wishing to visit during the summer season. The village is perched on a rocky outcrop and its streets are steep, narrow and paved with river pebbles and irregular stones.
- Access and parking: The road leading up from Bussana Nuova is narrow and features several hairpin bends. During the summer months, visitor numbers are high and the number of parking spaces available along the road leading up to the village entrance is limited. It is advisable to plan your visit for the early morning or late afternoon to avoid peak times and make it easier to find a parking space.
- Recommended footwear: To walk safely through the narrow streets and avoid slipping on the smooth stones, it is essential to wear comfortable shoes with non-slip rubber soles. Pushchairs and prams may encounter considerable difficulty due to the steps and the steepness of the streets.
- Facilities in the village: There are a few eateries and cafés in the village where you can buy food and drink, but the choice is limited compared to the coastal resorts of the Riviera dei Fiori.
Davide’s tip: If you decide to visit Bussana Vecchia in the height of summer, you should definitely avoid the middle of the day, when the sun beats down hard on the village’s cobblestones and there is little shade. Bring a good supply of water with you and wear hiking boots or shoes with a very grippy sole: the cobblestones of the narrow streets, smoothed by foot traffic and the passage of time, can be extremely slippery. Finally, the access road is narrow and visibility is limited on the hairpin bends; if you encounter another vehicle, stay calm and proceed at walking pace.
Foto di Christoph Hanssen su Pexels